The famous 700m high twin peaks of the Dragon’s Horns (or locally known as Nenek Semukut) beckons all climbers who visit this beautiful island off the coast of Pahang. Unfortunately, its out of reach of the average recreational climber!....Thankfully though, there is another sport climbing site established by Leman and co for mere mortals. There’s some 20 routes from grade 5 to 6c on a volcanic granite cliff on Juara beach. Unlike most finger-shredding granites in the tropics though, the texture here is strangely skin friendly with just enough friction for smearing.
How to get there
Tioman lies some 2 hr boat ride away from the ferry terminal at Mersing. If you drive, you can park at the guarded parking lot next to the jetty. Otherwise, there are busses that leaves KL and Johor for Mersing every 2 hours or so. There are direct flights from Singapore and KL by light aircraft that lands on the small airstrip at the Berjaya Tioman Resort.
There is also a direct fast catamaran service from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal in Singapore to Berjaya (only during peak period, Feb to Oct).
The speed boat from Mersing will drop you at Juara Beach. There are beach chalets there. If you plan to stay at other beaches (or if you take the flight or ferry to Berjaya), you will need to hop onto a water taxi to bring you to Juara beach.
Once on Juara, walk north along the beach pass the last chalet and the turtle hatchery. There is a small, knee deep river that you need to cross to get to a campsite. A short hike up a footpath will bring you to the base of the cliff.
